Journey to Ushuaia

Heading south along the foothills of the Andes from Mendoza. Our morning will be a flat straight paved road until we get to the town of San Rafael. From here we will tour the Canyon de Atuel, where the Atuel river has carved a mini-canyon out of the desert (dirt road).

We are searching for the infamous Ruta 40, and we will find it at our stop for the night, Marlargue. Ruta 40 is one of the most important north-south highways in Argentina that runs along the eastern side of the Andes. It is slowly being paved, thus taking away some of the trickier sections of travelling by motorcycle in Argentina as this road is not always in good shape.

Strong winds challenge all. Malargue is famous for the chivo (goat) and holds the annual festival of the goat which is in January and spans 5 days of music and goat roasting. If we can, we will try to sample some goat here! Malargue is the true gateway to the Patagonia.

Our hotel in Chos Malal is the last of our stops before we hit the dirt for our biggest dirt day of the entire trip (the biggest dirt day will be Puerto Guadal to Lago Posadas). This charming town is located in a valley cut by the Curí Leuvú and Neuquén rivers, which have rapids in this location. Towards the right, it is protected by the imposing Mountain Range of the Wind (“Cordillera de Viento”), which extends north to south until reaching the Domuyo volcano.

We will have some time to ride to the top of one of the volcanos this morning a few kms outside of town. The views of the lake below are breath taking. The rest of our morning will be spent winding along the river on nice dirt roads.

We will pass through Junin de los Andes and the landscape will start to change dramatically from desert to forest as we enter into the touristic ski village of San Martin de los Andes. You will start seeing the Swiss influence on the architecture here. This is a very nice town to wander around and explore. We will get in to the hotel fairly early today.

On the way to Bariloche we will enter the lake district on the ‘Road of the Seven Lakes’, a stunningly beautiful motorcycle road that makes many riders’ “Top 10” lists. Bariloche has often been called Little Switzerland, and we stay at a beautiful, small luxury boutique hotel  two nights to celebrate.

This is our last day in Argentina for a while. From Bariloche our trusty Ruta 40 will lead us south to El Bolson and through the National Park Los Alerces to the Welsh settlement of Trevelin, a quaint little town.

DAY 9

Puyuhuapi, Chile
250km
Border crossing

Crossing back into Chile for the first time since leaving Santiago, we will hit the legendary Carretera Austral, which we will be following for the next three days. With its very humid climate, this fjord area has lush green vegetation and roaring rivers in a beautiful mountain setting.

We will pass the impressive castle-like mountain of Cerro Castillo, the Dead Forest Valley, and the village of Bahia Murta and Puerto Rio Tranquilo. For those have read Rene’s book The University of Gravel Roads, the little town of Puerto Rio Tranquilo was where he camped by the lake for two weeks while waiting for parts to show up for his broken motorcycle.

DAY 10

Coyhaique, Chile
220km

Another beautiful ride along the Carretera Austral, much of this day will be paved. Coyhaique is a fairly large city, which allows for some shopping, banks, or resupplying if needed.

DAY 11

Puerto Guadal, Chile
275km

South of this town we catch what some say is the most spectacular part of the Carretera Austral, heading around the shimmering green Lake General Carrera with amazing views of the northern inland icefield.

DAY 12

Puerto Guadal, Chile
Rest Day. No Riding

Our second rest day. Take time to catch up on your journal, or take the optional jet boat up to another glacier. If you are feeling adventurous, you can also take the helicopter there!

DAY 13

Lago Posadas, Argentina
211km.
Border crossing

We start at first light to get a jump on this day—all dirt and packed with scenery! This ride is unique and off the beaten track. Our routing through this area is unorthodox and not where the tourists normally go, and that is also exactly why we love it.

DAY 14

Estancia La Angostura, Argentina
270km

Tonight’s accommodation is a working estancia (ranch). Here people can take part in some of the gaucho (cowboy) ways, and we eat lamb roasted gaucho style. People will remember this place forever—definitely a highlight of the trip. Our guide John took cover here back on his first trip to Ushuaia in 2006 when he was faced with a foot of mud… on the road.

DAY 15

El Chalten, Argentina
275km

Traversing the steppes we will pass Cardiel and Lake Viedma to reach El Chalten, a small village at the base of the famous granite towers of Fitz Roy and Cerro Torre. El Chalten has become very popular amongst backpackers and trekkers in recent years and has come to rival the Himalaya as the trekking capital of the world!

DAY 16

El Calafate, Argentina
215km

Short ride today back along Lake Viedma to the Ruta 40 and on the southern shores of shining Lake Argentina we will reach Calafate. We will roll into town early today and have most of the day to head out to see the Perito Moreno glacier, one of the few advancing glaciers in the world today.

DAY 17

Puerto Natales, Chile
273 km
Border Crossing

We cross the border back into Chile and head towards Torres del Paine National Park, spending the night in a pleasant small hotel close to Puerto Natales. We are here for two nights. Prepare to ride in the park tomorrow as an optional ride day, or sit by the roaring wood fire in the sitting room and get caught up on your relaxing.

DAY 18

Puerto Natales & Torres Del Paine, Chile
Rest Day. Optional Ride through park.

DAY 19

Punta Arenas, Chile
280  km

An easy day with nice stops for coffee will get us into Punta Arenas mid day. The afternoon is yours to explore the city (and it’s famous cemetery) if you wish. This is the most southernly city in Chile.

DAY 20

Rio Grande, Argentina
Ferry, then  233 kms

We start the day with a ferry that usually takes about two hours, arriving in Porvenir before lunch. Welcome to Tierra Del Fuego! We start our ride to the last border crossing with 100 kms of nice gravel, which will also be the last gravel roads for the trip. After our border formalities, we arrive to see the Atlantic Ocean and stay in Rio Grande.

DAY 21

Ushuaia, Argentina
211km

Our last day on the bikes. Passing the village of Tolhuin, we will circle the immense Lake Fagnano and crossing the Garibaldi Pass before decending to the ocean side town of Ushuaia, the most southernly city in the world.

DAY 22

Ushuaia, Argentina
Fly Out

Our exploring to the bottom of the world has come to an end. Today is the fly-out day, and we begin our journey back home.